RIGHT NOW, GENE GILMER is as sharp as ever at 90 years of age. A retired school superintendent who earned his doctorate in math decades ago, Gilmer lives alone. He worries about losing the memories that defined his life. That’s part of the reason he enrolled in an unusual clinical trial.
TREATMENT BY VIDEO CHAT
The treatment being tested: Conversation. Four times a week for a half-hour each time, he taps a button on a tablet computer. And talks face-to-face with a research assistant. The conversation is invariably pleasant, always a half hour in length, and curiously themed.
“A lot of the questions seem to reflect back to when I was a lot younger,” he said. “They seem to be testing my memory.”
Testing – not quite. But targeting? Definitely. Researchers are conducting a study to see if regular conversation can stave off dementia.
Conversational Clinical Trial
Known as the Internet-based Conversational Clinical Trial, or I-CONECT, the project connects socially isolated seniors for regular half-hour conversations with trained conversationalists through online video chat. Previous pilot studies showed promising results, clearing the way for the National Institute on Aging to fund the full[1]scale clinical trial that’s now underway.
“This could be an actual clinical intervention your doctor would prescribe. Like exercise for a healthy heart,” said Jacob Lindsley, a senior research assistant in the OHSU Layton Aging and Alzheimer’s Disease Centre.
Social isolation is a major problem for seniors. A recent report by the Lancet Commission noted that 2.3 percent of dementia cases could be prevented by reducing social isolation.
The conversations aren’t just shooting the breeze. That is why research assistants lead participants through conversations that are specifically designed to exercise areas of the brain. Mainly, associated with abstract thought, memory and higher-level executive functioning skills.
Final Words
Researchers demonstrated in a 2014 study that seniors who participated in video chats significantly improved in some cognitive tests. Whereas, compared to a control group that did not engage in video chats.
So there you go, Silvers. Video chatting is actually good for your brain. Call up a mate and off you go! ■
Click here, to know more about the silver citizens of Gold Coast.
Thinking about downsizing? Then check out this upcoming event – it has free tips for seniors preparing for retirement.
SENIORS CAN DISCOVER valuable insights into preparing for retirement living when one of the country’s foremost experts, Rachel Lane, shares her tips at a free event. The gathering will be hosted by RetireAustralia’s The Verge at Burleigh G.C. retirement community.
Rachel is the Principal of Aged Care Gurus, and has authored several books on age-related issues.
RetireAustralia: Seniors Looking to Downsize
RetireAustralia’s CEO, Dr Brett Robinson said the free session was designed to demystify the process of buying into a retirement community. “Getting ready for retirement can seem overwhelming at first. That is why RetireAustralia is committed to providing seniors with free access to leading industry experts, to help them find the right home to suit their needs. Seniors can discover what they need to know about the ingoing, ongoing and outgoing costs of retirement living at this session, gain a basic understanding of the way different contracts work and how to approach the task of downsizing.’’
Rachel said that while there were many factors to weigh up before moving into retirement village living, there were many benefits. “Initially for many it may seem easier to stay in your own home, but there’s usually a turning point such as the loss of a spouse or health concerns that exacerbate social isolation and prompt a reconsideration. Once people move into a village, they commonly ask themselves why they didn’t do it sooner.’’
TOP TIPS FOR TRANSITIONING INTO RETIREMENT VILLAGE LIVING
■ Get a feel for the community: Many retirement communities host Friday night happy hours. Or in the case of The Verge, regular Meet Your Future Neighbours events. Join in these activities for a sense of how you will fit in.
■ Understand your contract: Your contract may have consequences for your pension. Your ability to afford the lifestyle you want as well as aged care into the future. Unfortunately, contracts are rarely looked at after they are signed, and the unexpected happens. Break the contract into three time zones. Before you move in, while you live there and when you leave to help identify what happens when.
■ Crunch the numbers: A lot of people look at just the upfront costs. But for a true comparison you should factor in ingoing, ongoing and outgoing costs such as exit fees.
■ Seek advice: As with any major purchase, it is important to seek independent advice from reputable legal and financial experts, as well as understand how downsizing may affect your investments. pension and how you structure your superannuation.
The exclusive Rightsize your Retirement information session will be held from 10am to 12noon. March 30 2021, at the Ocean View Room at North Burleigh Surf Club, 293 The Esplanade, Miami.
Places for the Rightsize your Retirement session are limited. RSVP is essential by visiting the website at thevergeburleigh.com.au/events or call 1800 955 070. A light morning tea will be served before the presentation.
EXERCISE BUFFS have long used protein supplements to gain muscle. But new research from McMaster University suggests one protein source, in particular, whey protein, is different. It is the Ideal Protein To Help Seniors struggling to rebuild muscle lost from inactivity associated with illness or long hospital stays.
The study, published online in The American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, compared the impact of different forms of protein supplements on older adults. They are a growing population challenged by the loss of muscle and strength or sarcopenia. Sarcopenia can affect balance, gait, and the ability to perform the simple tasks of everyday life. Researchers found that protein did not stop lean muscle loss caused by inactivity, however, whey supplements helped to rebuild muscle once the participants’ activities resumed.
Says Stuart Phillips, a professor of kinesiology at McMaster, “The important message here is that not all proteins are created equal. Whey is one of the highest quality proteins and is ideal for older persons.”
For the study, researchers recruited men and women who were non-smokers, non-diabetic and between the ages of 65 and 80 years old. One group of subjects consumed whey protein, the other collagen peptides, throughout the study.
Whey is considered a high-quality or complete protein, meaning it is rich in all essential amino acids and is higher in leucine. Leucine is one of the essential amino acids the body cannot make itself and therefore, must be derived from food. Collagen peptides, by comparison, are much lower in their leucine content, lack or are low in essential amino acids.
For a five-week period, their diet was controlled, including a two-week time frame where their daily steps were restricted to 750 per day and their calorie intake reduced by 500 calories per day, conditions that might mimic what older people often experience during a hospital stay. Participants returned to normal activity levels during a one-week recovery period. The team had predicted that the collagen peptide the group would experience a significantly greater muscle loss than the whey protein group, but that didn’t happen. Both groups lost the same amount of muscle.
Says Sara Oikawa of the Department of Kinesiology at McMaster, “While we already know that complete protein sources are more potent for stimulating building processes we were surprised to discover that after two weeks of limiting steps among the participants, there were no apparent differences in muscle loss between the two groups.”
While protein was ineffective in mitigating muscle loss, say researchers when participants returned to normal, muscle-building activity, the whey group recovered more skeletal muscle. “When we consider measures that can be taken to help seniors as they age, it’s clear that whey is an important ingredient. Conversely, we should avoid collagen in formulations targeting older people,” says Oikawa.
In future research, Oikawa plans to focus on women specifically, who tend to experience greater difficulties in rebuilding strength. Whey protein is just another thing we can thank cows for. Thanks, Daisy!
Want to know more about exercise tips for senior citizens, click here
HOTA Gallery: The new craaazy-amazing place is a $60.5 million investment in the city’s cultural life. And here’s the news we have all been waiting for! It is now open!
The HOTA gallery spans six levels and is the largest public gallery outside a capital city in Australia. They say your city has made it if you have a decent art gallery. Well Gold Coast, we have arrived.
HOTA Programs
The new HOTA Gallery will feature a dynamic program of world premiere international exhibitions, Australian exclusives, and new commissions. There will be a never-ending program of vibrant exhibitions, events, and activities 7-days a week.
Hota: The place to be
HOTA Gallery’s first major exhibition, Solid Gold features artwork from Australian artists. It is a celebration of the Gold Coast, exclusively featuring creatives with a deep connection to the region. Look out for works encompassing sculpture, painting, video, photography, and installations, both indoors and out.
Imaginative Artist Abbey McCullochHands-On Artist Claudia De SalvoExtra-Bright Artist Michael Candy
City Collection
And if you love art, or only even just like it, you’ll be impressed with this: The access to the City Collection is like nothing ever offered before. There’s over 4500 pieces in the collection, you’ll have the opportunity to see pieces from both national and international artists that have yet to be displayed.
The Gold Coast City Art Gallery first opened its doors in 1986. It was the first time the City collection could be displayed in a proper gallery setting for the public to view. And it has gone from strength to strength since then. The original building gallery saw over 1.2 million people go in and out its doors. over 33 years, it has held over 700 exhibitions. The City Collection has grown from a modest 270 works to more than 5,000 works of art. They are now worth more than $30 million. It also includes one of the largest collections of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander art in regional Australia.
HOTA will evolve in stages over the next 10 to 15 years. It will have an art hotel, creative industries, cafes and other facilities.
HOTA Food. Yum!
The rooftop bar offers a jaw-dropping view of the Surfer’s skyline. On the ground floor, you can enjoy world-class dining and a five-star experience in the restaurant. This will obviously be the new haunt to hang in.
Hota eats: yum
Hota Halflings
Got the grandkids with you? Then check this out. The Children’s Gallery is the perfect opportunity to create priceless memories with the nippers. You can nurture their budding curiosity and creativity, all while getting credit for the great day out.
The whole HOTA precinct always has something going on, so grab the grandkids, the family, friends, visitors, and let’s get this party started.
■ HOTA, Home of the Arts 135 Bundall Rd, Surfers Paradise Hota.com.au
Silver Adventurers Jan and Peter (both 73) hit the road in their caravan to explore the iconic Darling River Run.
The Darling River is Australia’s third longest river. It winds 2,740km through Outback New South Wales. Part of the Murray-Darling Basin, the Darling River system is fed primarily from the summer rains of southern Queensland. It makes its journey south-west across the state to Wentworth, where it joins the mighty Murray River. The waters continue their journey to Lake Alexandrina and into the Southern Ocean.
The ‘Run’ is a 730km drive that follows the river – the ‘spine’ of Outback NSW. It is known for having the best Outback country in Australia, and is also famous for the flora, fauna, wondrous landscapes, outback characters and truly remarkable sunrises and sunsets. It is now incredibly popular with caravanners and the Grey Nomads that are living for the thrill of new places.
Following the Darling River means you can experience the towns along its course, and dabble in many side trips in the Outback. The river varies from scattered water holes in drought to 80kms wide in flood. There are unique towns (Lightning Ridge and White Cliffs), wonderful National Parks (Paroo-Darling, Gundabooka, Mutawintji, Kinchega, and Mungo), the remote Corner Country (Milparinka, Tibooburra and the magnificent Sturt National Park), and heritage towns in western NSW, like Broken Hill. We left the Gold Coast and headed southwest.
The Old Deepwater rail line
HITTING THE ROAD
The roads in the west of NSW had just opened again. They had been closed previously due to recent heavy rain in the north. It was perfect spring weather. With our off-road, solar-powered caravan in tow, we travelled via Lismore and Tenterfield. We spend our first night camped behind the Deepwater Hotel, where free camping is offered on unpowered sites.
In the hotel, we chose a table next to the warm fire in the hotel lounge and enjoyed a few drinks and chats with the locals. There was plenty of history to explore in this old stone building while we waited to be served our dinner of massive pork chops, homemade chips and veges.
Deepwater, with a population of approximately 400, is located on the New England Highway and on a railway line which closed in 1972. The old line is now part of the proposed New England Rail Trail of 210kms from Armadale to the border town of Wallangarra. The Deepwater historic railway station now hosts the local radio station.
We were not expecting the sudden drop in temperature after nightfall. To use our 240volt electric heater we moved our van closer to the hotel, plugged into a power point and gladly paid $15 for an overnight powered site. This was the coldest temperature we experienced on this trip and the only time we needed to convert from 12volt.
The next day we hit Collarenebri on the Barwon River. It is affectionally called “Cods Country” by the local population of just over 600. It is claimed to be the home of the Murray Cod and the best inland fishing location in NSW. Industries in this area are now cotton, wheat, breeding sheep and beef cattle, and gemstones for fossicking tourists. The Squatters Arms Hotel, established in 1860 by William Earl, became famous for having been held up by the bushranger Captain Thunderbolt.
BREWARRINA
Morning tea, the next day, was enjoyed in Brewarrina. The Darling River begins between Brewarrina and Bourke at the junction of the Culgoa and Barwon Rivers. We explored the fish ladder on the Barwon River. A fish ladder is a structure built to help fish migrate up a river when a dam or other blockage has been built in the way. They enable fish to pass around the barriers by swimming and leaping up a series of relatively low steps into the waters on the other side.
Brewarrina Fish Ladder
There are also some fascinating Aboriginal fish traps to see. The Brewarrina Fish Traps are a complex arrangement of stone walls in the Barwon River. Nearly half a kilometre in length, they are the largest known in Australia. They were an ingenious invention long used by Aboriginal people to catch fish. The age of these fish traps is unknown, and they may be one of the oldest human constructions in the world.
One thousand kilometres from the Gold Coast, we arrived on the banks of the Darling River at Bourke. It was time to explore the three-level wharf, which was built to cope with differing seasonal water levels. Bourke used to be a major port for paddle steamers on the Murray-Darling. Paddle steamers transported wool from the river ports, but petered out around 1920 when better transport methods developed.
We bought fresh produce from the well-stocked grocery store then travelled south for 3kms on the historic Kidman Way. It was named after Sir Sidney Kidman, a famous pastoralist and cattle king. He owned over a hundred cattle stations along what was originally a stock route. Many of these properties are still owned by his descendants. We diverted from this highway onto Louth Road and travelled along the iconic Darling River Run.
Our next choice of accommodation was ‘Rose Isle Station.’ We could either camp on a river site out on the property, or camp with facilities at the homestead. We chose an unpowered site on the green grass of the homestead. It looked too attractive to refuse after the dusty gravel roads. We stayed there three nights on this working grazing property located 70kms downstream of Bourke.
They also cater for overnight visitors with dinner and breakfast if required, or a homemade lunch pack for a day trip. On some days, homemade scones, jam, and cream are served for morning tea in the quaint campers’ kitchen. It was a pleasant spot to gather around the fire in the evenings with fellow travellers.
On day two we set off to paddle our kayaks on the river. We enjoyed the company of pelicans who watched us with curiosity. We found a spot for our midday lunch with tall river gums, offering some shade.
BOURKE
We planned to fill up with fuel at the next village, Louth, but were advised the hotel/fuel station was temporarily closed due to an illness in the family. Not prepared to take a risk on the availability of the next fuel, we returned 70km back to Bourke the next morning and topped up with diesel. From here we spent the rest of the day exploring Gunderbooka National Park, one hour to the south down the Kidman Way.
There are three main areas of the park, bounded to the north by the Darling River. The open plains are topped off by Mt Gundabooka. At the Mulgowan Site, we enjoyed our lunch at the picnic area and explored an easy path crossing a rocky bluff. It had a lovely trail between the rocks and along the course of the seasonal Mulareenya Creek. It terminated at a rock overhang which is decorated with Aboriginal Rock Art. This was a significant area for Aboriginal ceremonies. Blossoming wattle dotted yellow in the red, rocky landscape.
Gunderbooka walk to cave art
On the western side of the park along a red dusty road fringed with multicoloured wildflowers, we emerged at the stony Valley of the Eagles walking trail to the dry Bennetts Gorge. The view across the surrounding plains from a climb up Mt Gundabooka was vast, extending to the horizons. We had travelled in a circuit and returned to Rose Isle Station in time for sunset drinks.
Bourke Wharf
LOUTH
On arrival in Louth the hotel/store was closed as predicted. The village was named after County Louth, by Irish settler Thomas Mitchell. As we wandered around the tiny village, the tall monument in the cemetery couldn’t be missed at 7.6m tall and topped with a Celtic cross. It was erected in memory of Thomas’ deceased first wife Mary, mother of his 6 children. He later married a 22-year-old Melbourne woman Mary Larkins. Despite Thomas’ accumulated wealth, life was hard out there. The isolation of the outback must have been a terrible shock for this young bride. She died 3 months later by poisoning herself with strychnine.
The Louth Monument
Two years later he married Susan Raey, a 33-yearold widow with 5 children. At this time he started planning the monument which took several years and 600 pounds to complete. The grey granite was quarried on Phillip Island. It took 3 years for delivery, and was initially stuck on the riverboat Jane Eliza from Echuca, which was stranded for two years at Tilpa due to drought. It was then moved by bullock team. The 1.2-metre Celtic cross was positioned so that at sunset each day an unusual halo image can be seen from various angles on the town common. On the anniversary day (19 August) of first wife Mary’s death the sun reflects from the cross to the house where Mary lived with her 6 children.
Thomas’ third wife, Susan, died 18 years after its installation. Four years later Thomas married his 4th wife Clara Childs, an English widow.
Gunderbooka to Bennets Gorge
DUNLOP STATION
At Dunlop Station, 14kms south of Louth we stepped back in time. It was originally over a million acres! Its main claim to fame was that it was the first shearing shed in the world to install mechanical shearing in 1888 with 45 stands.
Dunlop Woolshed
After a lovely morning tea, the Chandler family, who had purchased the property nine years ago, took us on a guided tour of the original stone homestead. It has wide verandahs with insect screens, a stone station store, and a shearing shed. Plus, it has been a massive labour of love by this family to restore this homestead and outbuildings. It was neglected for 25 years, but now it is partly back to its former glory – but it is a continuing challenge. We heard stories of mice infestations, ancient, preserved foods left in the pantry by the former owner, massive piles of books and newspapers, rooms so full of junk that the doors couldn’t be opened. We wandered through the rooms that have been restored, admired the antique furniture, the cellar, and kitchen.
In times past, supplies from the river boats were unloaded at the station store on the banks of the Darling River. They were then purchased by the many workers who once worked and lived on the property. The huge woolshed, still in operation, requires a lot of work to repair it. All the original tools and hardware are still on display. The property is now smaller than the original, and runs sheep and goats. It supplements income with the guided tours, and camping for travellers.
During drought, a car can be driven along the dry riverbed! During the last flood, the levee bank around the homestead protected the homestead but isolated the family for 3 months.
The Tilpa Pub (established 1894) is on the banks of the Darling River and was a port for the river traffic. We were amused that the outside drinking area, surrounded by corrugated iron, was called ‘Baa’.
Tilpa pub
It is one of the last remaining true bush pubs. Camping is allowed across the road in a dry dusty field. Fortunately, a fellow traveller gave us a tip that the Tilpa Weir was only a few kilometres away. It was here we found a pleasant campsite on the river and enjoyed the company of 25 pelicans who rested on the rocks of the weir and waited for the unexpecting fish to swim into reach.
Dunlop Homestead
PAROO-DARLING NATIONAL PARK
We travelled on a long, dusty, narrow, and incredibly flat road to the sparse and large Paroo-Darling National Park. The first European to explore the region was Charles Sturt and his party in 1844. They were followed soon after by others in search of pastures for sheep and cattle in the 1860s.
Entry Paroo Darling National Park
The Paroo-Darling National Park was formed after the purchase of seven properties between 2000 and 2003 by the Government of New South Wales. Stagecoach company Cobb & Co also ran several routes through this important pastoral region.
The small National Parks camping ground was well equipped and we were surprised to see it fill up as evening approached. It was disappointing to find there were no marked walking trails. However, we stayed on to spend a day paddling along the river.
Darling River paddle
WARREN AND BEYOND
We now turned for home after reaching an area we had explored on a previous occasion. As we came into the mid-west area, we were astounded by the vast expanses of canola crops. In Warren, we wandered into the Kookaburra Café for morning tea and strolled around ‘Windows on the Wetlands.’ It has a wonderful display of the bird and native species of the Macquarie Marshes. Here we received friendly assistance and directions for our following excursion into that area.
Macquarie Marshes
Willie Station is on the Gibson Way and on the Macquarie River. It offered a good choice of camping right at the Marshes, budget accommodation in their shearing quarters and guided tours of the birdlife. On the property are remnants of old stables buildings, and a Cobb and Co inn. They also held a Guinness Book of Records mention for George – a pet sheep that lived for 21 years and 5 months.
A 200km round trip from Warren took us through the Marshes. There was plenty of water following recent rain and a pleasure to see the numerous water birds. We saw Magpie Geese, Eurasian Coots and Black Swans. A Latham’s Snipe and a Pink Eared Duck were two of the more unusual ones that we witnessed. To complete the circuit back to Warren down the eastern side of the marshes, we had to ford a hundred metres width of water. This is not always the case, as the wetlands can be dry at certain times of the year. The return through the tiny town of Quambone revealed that its main claim to fame would be the smallest operational library in NSW.
Darling Paroo National Park
MOUNT KAPUTAR
Mount Kaputar was our next destination. After enquires at the Narrabri Tourist Information Centre, we decided on Riverside Retreat as our camp. We were welcomed onto the horse stud property where we camped on the Namoi River. A late afternoon drive to the summit of Mt Kaputar allowed us to fit in a walk before returning to camp by sunset. The grade 4 climb to the summit of “The Governor” was stunning and the views were forever in all directions.
The view from The Governor Mt Kaputar
The next day we ventured off the Bingera Road onto Allambie Road in search of Waa Gorge in the northern section of Mt Kaputar. The road crossed grazing properties and required access through six gates. These extra duties fall to the co-pilot. The walk was short but the climb to view it from the top was difficult. The water falls through three pools in the gorge to the creek below. The views from the top were worth the climb.
Travelling further east we spent the night camped behind the Gravesend Hotel on the Gwydir Highway. The local farmers were a friendly bunch, and, in the bar, we shared drinks and tall tales. (The nearby hills resemble the mound of two graves, reputedly inspiring the town name). Gravesend was previously the site of a research station breeding cactoblastis moths. The insects were later released to eradicate a devastating prickly pear infestation on properties.
HOMEWARD BOUND
Continuing our thrust towards home, we called into the Inverell Information Centre and received a list of local farm stays and B&Bs. A couple of phone calls revealed the local properties didn’t cater for caravanners. But the friendly folks at ‘Sharron Park’, established in 1870, offered us a campsite in one of their paddocks. We were made very welcome and quite a fuss was made by Cathryn. She lead us on her quad bike to one of their favourite spots on the banks of a small creek. Their two dogs frolicked around us. John turned up with a fire pit for us which he had fashioned out of a washing machine barrel. We spent the evening around the campfire under a star-filled sky.
Riverside Farm Retreat Narrabri
Next morning, we called into the homestead to issue our thanks and say farewell. Instead, we were taken on a tour by 80-year-old John through his amazing machinery and carpentry sheds! We were stunned to see he was building an aeroplane with timber he cut on the property for the super structure. He milled the timber himself.
John’s self-made plane
Our visit enthused John to maybe extend their B&B business and install camping facilities. A third generation will be taking over the reins in the near future. Cathryn’s retirement plan is to host the B&B in the 5-bedroom homestead, whilst John (who is a qualified pilot) will finish his plane and consider welcoming caravanners.
Further along the way we diverted off the Gwydir Highway on a steep descent to the Mann River Nature Reserve camping area. It had been very nicely restored following the recent fires. The Old Grafton- Glen Innes Road took us past the ruins of the gold mining town of Dalmorton. Then, along the banks of the Boyd River and through a convict-cut tunnel, back onto the Gwydir Highway. It was homeward bound, to clean the red dust out of the caravan!
Have you gone on a great adventure lately? Email us! Nicole@sunkissmedia.com.au
In Australia, Christmas is just a day. In the far‑Northern hemisphere, it’s a whole season, a feeling, a lifestyle, a philosophy, and a food group. Let’s hope for a white Christmas next year in a Covid-free world. Nicole Buckler reports.
If you grew up in Australia, you instinctively know that Christmas is a little weird here. Kids draw pictures of snowmen, roaring fires, and icicles. But in reality, the only ice found in our houses is in Mum’s gin. There’s no getting away from it. Christmas is a cold-country festival – a cultural idea that has been dragged to Australia by our long-dead ancestors. They came from parts of the world that were a little too close for comfort to the Arctic.
The Reason for the Season
The whole reason Christmas exists is to give humans in these Arctic regions some joy throughout a very cold, very dark part of the year. Before central heating, this time of year totally sucked. A lot. So humans do nice things to make it easier to live through.
I wanted a “real” Christmas for once. And I was dead right to go to Sweden. If you want a real Christmas, then this is your place!
The thing you may not be prepared for, is how little sunlight Mother Nature affords you at this time of year! She is mean with the luminosity at this latitude. Sunrise is around 9:00am and the sun starts to set at 2:30pm. The day never warms up, despite the sliver of sunshine in the middle of the day. For a Gold Coaster, it’s savagely freezing. You’ll need to bring proper clothing.
The way the Swedes distract themselves from the cold dark otherworld they live in, is by going absolutely wild with the lights and decorations. Businesses and museums decorate for Xmas in Stockholm in the most impossibly exquisite manner. And of course, being a country famous for their sense of design, the decorations are so tasteful, oozing Swedish style that makes Ikea the international success that it is. And it makes our decorations look wildly bogan.
If you walk around the city at Christmas, you can see where they are going with these decorations. It absolutely puts everyone in a good mood. Every street is a new experience, a visual orgasm. The cold is forgotten and the darkness is mastered with stylish lighting. All good.
CHRISTMAS LIFE
In Stockholm, we stayed in a lovely area of Stockholm called Solna. Just about everyone lives in apartments in the capital of Sweden, they are easier to keep warm! And, the apartments are all built around a central green, where kids toboggan down hills together in a freezing idyll of modern life. If you want to schlep the grandkids somewhere, this is a good place to do it.
Christmas is really Christmas Eve, in Sweden. December 24 is the main day for celebrating Christmas, the major family event of the year. Swedes mix customs from home and abroad and keep the celebrations secular. They light up their homes with candlelight, decorate the tree and bake gingersnaps and saffron buns. They eat pickled herring, meatballs, and ham.
Swedish Santa
When everyone has arrived on the afternoon of the 24th, Santa comes knocking at the door with a bag of presents (he runs off after knocking, leaving the gifts, before the kids can open the door!).
But of course, it wasn’t Santa. The neighbours are actually acting as Santa for each other. They all knock for each other, leave the bag of presents, and quickly go back into their own apartments, thanks to arrangements made earlier.
The apartment we stayed in was across the road from a publicly funded outdoor ice-skating rink. The average Swede can just rock up to these rinks whenever there isn’t an ice-hockey match on, and use them for free. Watching the ice hockey is pretty cool too! While everyone was spending most of the day inside on the 24th with their families, we had the skate rink all to ourselves! In fact, we skated outdoors every single day we were there! It certainly gets you out in the fresh air and if you keep moving you are toasty in no time.
You can do wild skating though. Stockholm is built across an archipelago, so the city sits on connected little islands. During a cold winter (which isn’t every winter) the water between these islands freezes over. People then take to the ice, strolling, pushing prams, walking their dogs, skating, and cross-country skiing. It’s amazing to join in, it’s the stuff of life. We could have literally done this all day. It was beyond special. And, all ages were at it.
CHRISTMAS MARKETS
Every country now has Christmas markets. But the Christmas markets that are held every year inside Stockholm’s old town make you feel like you are walking in the original Christmas market that all others are based on. They are absolutely, achingly beautiful. If you want to bring presents back to Australia, this is your place. A month before Christmas these traditional stalls open. Some specialise in homemade food and drink, others in arts and crafts, and still others operate like regular retailers. The Christmas Markets take place in many places across Stockholm, but the best place to see them is in Gamla Stan – the Old Town.
GAMLA STAN
Walking around the Old Town at Christmas is the real deal. It feels like Christmas in a Christmas movie. This part of Stockholm dates back to the 13th century and has plenty of medieval alleyways and cobbled streets. The square where the Christmas market is held is called Stortorget and is populated with old merchants’ houses. A hundred years ago the place was considered a godawful slum, and some of its buildings were knocked down because they were unstable hellholes. But from the 1970s, it became a tourist attraction. So the Swedes, sensing a moneymaker, slowly restored the remaining buildings. It is thought that the buildings still standing are around 300 years old.
The square that holds the Christmas markets was actually the site of the Stockholm Bloodbath, where Swedish noblemen were massacred by the Danish King Christian II in 1520. Nice to be drinking a nice cup of glogg on the spot where someone was disembowelled with a sword.
Before the 17th century Stockholm was known as a smelly, dirty hellhole that sewage systems had not yet met. But the first half of the 17th century was a period of awakening: the nation decided to get its act together. Before this time Stockholm did not invite foreign statesmen to visit. This was in case the visitors saw Stockholm and its medieval attitude to cleanliness, and the Swedes all died of embarrassment. Now it’s an intensely pretty part of town, and not to be missed at Christmas.
CHRISTMAS DECORATIONS
At Christmas, every window has an adventsstjärnor – an advent star – even work places and restaurants have them! The idea originally came from Germany in the 1930s and they were imported into Sweden…but they were metal and expensive. Then the entrepreneur who started the clothing retailer H&M brought out an advent star in Sweden in the 1940s. They had a funky Swedish design and were made of cardboard so were a lot cheaper. The red stars were punctured all over with little star‑shaped holes and were an instant success. The tradition spread quickly and it has hung around ever since. These are a beautiful spectacle at Christmas in Stockholm.
You’ll also see little staircases of seven candles in the windows. They represent the seven days of the Christmas week…they are electric now, but they look real. So, you can expect that your grandkid’s face and hair will not catch on fire. Phew.
ROYAL PALACE
There are so few tourists in Stockholm at Christmas, that it’s a good time to see some places that are usually heaving with visitors. One of them is a royal palace. It is the official residence of the Swedish monarch. It has been a functioning palace since the 13th Century. The original castle burned down, and the newer building was finished on the site in 1727. This beast of a palace has 1,430 rooms.
The Queen’s throne is called the Lovisa Ulrika audience chamber. We peasants can view it quite closely. And then there’s the King’s seat – The Silver Throne in the Hall of State. It was commissioned for the coronation of Queen Kristina in 1650. The throne rooms are ridiculous displays of pomp. The chairs are raised on a pedestal and even have canopies like it is about to rain. The most fascinating part is that even today, it is an actual working throne. How modernday people put up with this pompous crap is a mystery. But it is amazing to visit as a tourist, and little girls will always be fascinated by princesses. Your granddaughter will be impressed!
THE VASA MUSEUM
The Vasa Museum is my favourite museum in the whole world, and I have seen a hell of a lot of museums. It is so incredible that it’s hard to grab the words to explain the vision of it as you walk into its dedicated museum. The Vasa is a ship that was commissioned in 1626 by a Swedish king. It was to be the biggest and most powerful warship ever built. It was absolutely huge and had artwork and workmanship on it that the world has never seen the like of.
However, on its maiden voyage, looking stunning and almost God-created, it sank just one kilometre into its journey. It was an embarrassing fiasco that Sweden struggled to live down.
The Embarrassment
In the summer of 1628, before the ship set sail, there were alarm bells ringing. The captain supervising the construction of Vasa, Söfring Hansson, had thirty men run back and forth across the deck to test its stability. The ship rolled alarmingly. The Admiral, who was watching, had the demonstration stopped, afraid the ship would sink at the quay. Under pressure from the king to get the ship to sea, he ordered Söfring to sail anyway. The Vasa sets off on its first and last voyage. No one involved in its construction had the will or bravery to say to the king that it was doomed from the start. It was the shortest maiden voyage in history.
Still within sight of the shipyard where it was built, the Vasa heeled to port under a gust of wind. As it tipped, water gushed in through the open gunports. Within minutes, the ship was lying on the sea bed 32 metres below. Thousands of Stockholm´s inhabitants witnessed the tragic scene, together with several foreign ambassadors. What began in hope and ambition ended in tragedy and farce. Thirty people on board died, the rest only just escaped with their lives.
Preservation
Because the ship sank into mud in Stockholm harbour, it remained preserved for 300 years. It was pulled out of the bottom of the harbour in the 1960s and was put back together with a lot of pain. It now sits in the Vasa museum and 97% of it is original. This is not a recreated ship; it’s the real deal. It is so magnificent and huge in real life, that when I saw it, I cried. It is about five storeys high and the woodwork is magnificent. It’s hard to convey just how amazing this ship is in real life.
When modern day shipbuilders look at it, they have realised that the ship was too “top heavy” … also there were two teams working on the building of it: one from Amsterdam and one from Sweden. They didn’t realise that Amsterdam feet and Swedish feet were one inch different. So one side of the ship was a different size to the other.
If it wasn’t for the fiasco, we wouldn’t have the ship today. A Swedish friend of mine said that he went to see it when he was a little boy, and it used to stink badly because of all the preservatives in the wood, needed to keep it from drying out too quickly and cracking. But now, it no longer smells. The museum also houses all the things found in it, including a skeleton with clothes and shoes still on!
LUCIA DAY
If you can get a fair length of time in Sweden, try to arrive in time for Lucia Day on December 13. The event symbolises light in the midst of a dark winter. Young girls dress up and parade in all sorts of places, and it really does fire up the Christmas spirit.
Banana Curry Pizza
Yes, these are a thing. Before you recoil in horror, give it a try! The banana curry pizza is very popular and available at every takeaway in Stockholm. The combination of sweet banana, salty smoked ham, and tangy curry is amazing! DO IT!
THINGS TO KNOW
The flight time to Stockholm is 22 hours, with a break in Hong Kong in the middle. At the time of writing, this route was not available, due to Covid-19. However we hope that by the time Christmas 2021 comes, Covid-19 will be banished back to the hell it came from. Happy white Christmas dreaming, Gold Coasters!
